Classy Wareing’s Berkeley bargain

Marcus Wareing is one of London’s most celebrated chefs and his eponymous restaurant at the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge has much to attract the business diner.

The room is elegant, tables are well spaced and there is no irritating muzak to interfere with your conversation. Service is silky smooth and the waiting staff are helpful but not intrusive.

The food is sophisticated and generally follows familiar paths: breast of quail with peas and girolle mushrooms impressed on my last visit.

The kitchen can seem to be trying too hard to be fashionable, pairing excellent lamb with rose petal mousse in one peculiar dish, but this is the exception and technically the cooking is hard to fault.

When the menu stays in more familiar territory the skill in the kitchen shines through, such as with a fillet of high-quality sea bass served with cauliflower and butter breadcrumbs.

For dessert ask for the custard tart, a signature dish, and one that has fine pastry and superb texture.

A full blown multi-course tasting menu will set you back a hefty £120, but there is a relatively bargain lunch offering at £38.

The wine list offers few bargains, but you probably won’t be over-indulging at your business lunch.

For more of Andy’s reviews, click here