Square meal is classic delight

For a business lunch you need a venue that is not too noisy and where tables are not so closely packed in that your conversation can be easily overheard by other diners.

You also want really good food and attentive, but not intrusive, service. Such a venue is The Square, tucked away in Bruton Street near Berkeley Square.

Philip Howard has earned two Michelin stars at The Square, which since 1991 has been producing classical French dishes of a very high standard.

The dining room has a subdued feel, with wood panelling and well-spaced tables.

Here you might eat a plump, sautéed langoustine tail, served with Parmesan gnocchi and an emulsion of potato and truffle: the tender shellfish is balanced by the earthiness of the emulsion, the cheese adding an extra dimension.

Desserts are excellent: a Brillat-Savarin cheesecake with currants provides a delicious balance between the rich filling and the texture of the biscuit base.

If the occasion suits, the wine list is tolerably priced by Mayfair standards, and hides some genuine bargains in some parts of the extensive list.

In a London restaurant world that is too often driven by fashion rather than by quality, The Square is an oasis of high quality, classical cooking.

For more of Andy's reviews, click here


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